000 02202 a2200217 4500
010 _a9780730449829
090 _9317067
101 _aeng
_ceng
102 _aAUS
200 _aHigh surf
_bLIV
_fTim Baker
_eThe world's most inspiring surfers waveriding as a way of life the ocean as teacher
210 _a[S.l.]
_cHarper Collins Publishers
_d2007
215 _a1 vol. (355p.)
_d24 cm
330 _aT̐im Baker may well be the most brilliant and incisive surf writer working today, or on any givenday for the last twenty years. w̐orldprosurfers.com Leading surf journalist Tim Baker has profiled the surfing worlds̐ most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro-surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life -- writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists -- the common theme in all these surfers l̐ives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean. I̐ think one of the most powerful outcomes of surfing is how it creates community and shared experiences across all sections of society. Surfing is a lingua franca of nature. Even dolphins and other sea creatures surf. V̐ezen Wu, scientist J̐ust the feeling of the water on you, diving and paddling, duck-diving your first wave, seeing a set come, turning around and stroking into it, that initial rush as you drop down the face, the jolts of acceleration as you go through the manoeuvres - theres̐ nothing like it. The only thing that actually comes close to riding waves is sex. M̐ark Richards, four-time world surfing champion 5% of author royalties from this book will be distributed to the following charities: Surf Aid International; Disabled Surfers Association; Life Rolls On; Surfers Healing; Surfrider Foundation
345 _a35,00 $au
606 _aSurf
_yAustralie
676 _a797.3
700 _aBaker
_bTim
801 _aFR
_bMO
_c20120723